Wednesday, December 28, 2011

sojourns to the far east / day seven / return to seoul

today i go home.

and my heart feels so heavy, i cant even find ways to console it.


what was on the drawing board for so many months, after countless planning schedules and msn chats, numerous emails and continuous notifications, i had finally come to the end of this marvelous series of rendezvouses in the far east.

the places i've been, the friends i've met, the events i took part in and every wonderful occurance that has taken place is now but a precious memory, lodged within my heart and soul, and soon it was time to go home.



and once breakfast was had, i went to the markets nearby in insadong to do some last minute shopping for precious little presents to take home and pass to dear ones, near and far.everything was after all finally over and i try to take in as much as i could before i needed to head to incheon international airport in the afternoon.



a typical streetscape aligned with retail lots on both sides with a wide promenade, it nevertheless had some nice buildings inserted into the immediate vicinity of the local urban tapestry. i looked around, scouting for things i'd like to take home. i didn't stay too long though.



and after taking a few more shots, i was on my way back to the guesthouse. time to leave.



and just before i did, this group of adorable children, clad in a multitude of vibrant colours, was the last shot i took before i finally packed up and left for the airport. its been a beautiful 12 days here in korea, and memories like these i'll cherish for as long as i live.

see you in 2011, seoul. aur revoir and thanks so much for everything!
everything!

sojourns to the far east / day six / return to seoul

after yesterdays' fantastic outing, today i'm gonna take things a bit easy.

this was my second last day in this wonderful city that i've really grown to love, and i was going to take the day to do nothing, absolutely nothing.

i had only one thing on my agenda tonight and that was to meet YW for dinner, but that would only be in the evening after 6pm and so till then i would be free. so i decided i would leisurely pack mu stuff up and get all my luggage ready for tomorrow's flight back home. the simple things needed to be done today, and a cup of warm coffee was my faithful companion. and once it was all done and the evening had arrived, i was on my way to meet her.

hello leng lui! time to shik fan and yum cha!



and so we went for dinner somewhere nearby the hongik university area, and spoke about how much fun its been since i got here. of course i told her how much i appreciated her company and the effort she took to meet up despite her hectic work schedule, and even though MJ Kim was supposed to join us tonight but she couldn't, i was really glad that YW came and had one last kimchi dish with me before i headed home tomorrow.

it seemed like the perfect ending.



once dinner was done, we walked about for a while in this area, and pretty soon i was told that this university area is kinda like a nexus of pop culture and fun activity among the youth of the city. it was one of those happening places with bars and pubs, clubs and cafes situated near where students live and study, and so this area couldn't help but become the hotspot that it was today, and of course supplemented with rows and rows and rows of retail development. after a while i started feeling that this place was familiar somewhat and then it hit me, that i had been here before about a day or two before i left for shanghai, where i met those young american teachers and had a blast that night. so i had good fun then, and was having good fun now.

all part of the game.



commercialism and its insidious tentacles has clearly taken root and spread out here, in order to take advantage of the young's' reckless purchasing impulses, evident by numerous promotional activities like this one above, all trying to incite us to buy while thinking we're having a good time. i'm not being cynical or even critical, but i'm simply stating down observations i see as i go along.

but i cant deny that people were having fun, and sometimes that's all what people want. including yours truly.

once we had finished walking about, even making a joke on how we should buy shampoo so i can wash my beard at the same time i wash my hair (!) , i decided to ask her to go for nice cup of coffee, sheepish smiling as i was inviting her. as soon as she agreed, we happen to coincidentally pass by a coffee establishment that got YW kinda excited when she glanced initially.



it seems that this cosy place was used as a backdrop for some popular korean teenage soap opera and she brought me in to enjoy the ambiance of the night while she told me what the story was all about. i listened, of course.



it wasn't a bad place, but as usual, the companionship is all that really matters. coffee was simply a secondary concern, and after a while of indulging in one of life's simpler pleasures, and in this case tiramisu and caffeine, we were getting ready to leave.



as soon as we step out a of this famous cafe, little bit of spontaneous humour emerged in our view, completely out of nowhere. as we looked up, i just became speechless at what i saw and both of us, started chuckling in dumfounded delight.

i don't quite know what that means, but hey, it certainly did tickle our funnybones!



and after a few hours of dialogue, dinner and dessert, we finally said goodbye to each other. it was an absolute joy to meet her one last time and i told lets catch up once she gets home for CNY in 2011.

till then ... choi kin, leng lui!

sojourns to the far east / day five / return to seoul

spiders on my mind. big scary ones.

thats on the agenda today. haunted by images i saw months ago on the net, i decided today, i'd see some spiders. a long journey ensued, but i was unperturbed by the duration. my mind were on spiders.

big scary ones.

before i left for korea, i came across a collection of interesting museum buildings online designed separately by three different prominent architects, grouped together into a single coherent complex. my malaysian counterpart in seoul, YW, had also sent me the link to these buildings and i had planned to see them today. finding them was a bit of a challenge, but after quite a distance, i found them.



perched on the terrain of a hill, i found them.



and the first thing that greeted were those spiders.



menacing, gigantic, black arachnids. humongous, bizarre and creepy.

i had arrived.

this was the relatively famous LEEUM Samsung Museum of Art, and it was designed by OMA, an international practice led by seven ( thats right, SEVEN! ) big name, famous partners – Rem Koolhaas, Ellen van Loon, Reinier de Graaf, Shohei Shigematsu, Iyad Alsaka, David Gianotten and Managing Partner, Victor van der Chijs in creative collaboration with Mario Botta and Jean Nouvel, 2 other very prominent architects with 2 very distinctive styles. Botta was known for his usage of the cladding of his buildings with red bricks in many creative techniques and methods, and Nouvel was a french modernist, through and through, who employes glass and steel in his projects.

OMA themselves indulge in a variety of projects and design styles and strategies, and when i first read on how all of them were invited to design this massive collection of art galleries in one giant interconnected complex, i just had to see the final architectural and interior concoction of concepts that physically manifested as a result from the cocktail of ideas and styles contributed by this prominent design collaboration.



as i head for the entrance, this elegant glass and steel staircase captures my attention for a bit, right above a passageway that was heading down. that passageway lead to the reception area which was the main entrance of the complex.



and here i was, and so i walk in.



it was an entrance leading to a subterranean reception, which i particular liked, like waking in a mysterious underground tavern, which i suspect was the heart of the complex.



once i arrived i could decide on how i was going to explore the variety of spaces and passages that are interlinked within the interiors.after all, there must be an organized and efficient way on how visitors who visit this art museum can circumnavigate themselves around its labyrinth - like collection of halls and corridors, rooms and passageways.



the reception area was the central nexus of all three interconnected buildings, and the first one i chose to visit was the one designed by OMA, specifically headed by Rem KoolHass, which was called the Samsung Child Education and Culture Center.



and so after deciding my destination, and as i first turned left, there was a gift. in shimmering blue steel, topped off with a shimmering maroon knot.



once i decided where to go, a peculiar offering stood next to my path, and as i stopped momentarily to appreciate its elegant personality, i looked around and saw what seemed to resemble the stair connected pathway to an elevated entrance to a massive spaceship-like hull in refined bare concrete finish, a favourite skin among architects who favour modernist tendencies.



and as i approached the entrance, inside as i walked in i saw a variety of art exhibits in the dark, contemporary in nature, scattered all over and this dimly lit hall, which then led to a open exhibition space beneath.



again modern pieces of work, abstract and incomprehensible at times, were placed all over the open hall. i try my best to appreciate what i see, but there are times when modern art simply goes over my head. besides, i was more interested in the building anyway.

so i continue walking.

now the rest of the interiors of the complex was quite a collection of refined spaces too, but unfortunately photography was not allowed. not much of a surprise actually that no photos were allowed, and so i took the time to really observe my surroundings.



as i walk around the complex after exiting the interiors, i observe on how conspicuously powerful each architects design philosophy is clearly manifested in the individual buildings they were appointed to design. Botta's influence on this part of the complex, called Museum 1, couldn't have been more evident judging by the intricate and detailed richness of the texture of these walls above, like the walls that form the huge tapered vase above, which itself was inspired by korean porcelain and pottery.



what particularly captures my attention is the way sunlight bathes the wall in a sophistciated yet subtle play of light and shadow, that results from the way the terra cotta tiles have been arranged, creating a dramatic elevation that really showcases a sense of richness to the sight and touch, and to further add to the richness that was already prevalent, alternating strips of light and dark tiles wrap themselves around some of the fort - like walls of the gallery.



next to Botta's project, was a starkly different building, in complete contrast to its bright neighbour. this was designed by Nouvell, and it clearly was a modernist structure with imposing forms and flat roofs. Museum 2, as it was called was generally a block like structure with rusted metal as its primary skin. the block itself was divided into several components so that each artist may have its own private space for public exhibition.



i entered the complex to see what was displayed inside, and spent an hour or so, observing all that i saw. but again, what really interested me was the building itself, and i'm glad, that despite the initial difficulties i faced while getting there, it was well worth the trip.

the whole complex truly was an exquisite design in its entirety, and i although i had my doubts on how it would be possible for such a variety of superstar designers with dramatically different styles and strategies to come together to design a single unified project without the final result looking like an utter mess of ludicrously driven form, scale and proportion, i have to admit, the individual design components here sit comfortably well with each other, and lovingly enhances the overall collective composition of all the buildings.

once i was done here, i decided i still had time to visit a nearby park, which i was told had some interesting public sculptures, so i decided that would be next destination. and after about 2 hours of finding the place, i breathed a sigh of relief once i reached the locale, which was marked by a series of horses riding wild in the wind.



and i have to admit, seeing all this green was a bit of a comfort too.

and i walked on, taking in the green around me, i see the the silhouette of an invisible man. i had to approach this curious sight and see how can visualize the invisible that was before me. and as i got closer, i was pleasantly surprised by the magnitude of what i saw, or rather tried to see with strained eyes.



a semi - transparent silent behemoth, molded and cloaked in a thread - like light and fragile steel mesh of a "skin", that seemed to be rising from the ground after deep hibernation, but frozen inexplicably in motion as he attempted to rise.



his presence was undoubtedly imposing, but his aura was calm, and soundless even. a strange mix of feelings and emotional projections, coming from a singular mysterious object this enormous in dimension and volume.



this shadowy giant was a good enough reason to visit this park, i thought to myself, and after i sat in his company for a moment or two, and eventually walked away, i saw many other natural and artificial treasures abound in this verdant landscape.





pristine ponds and lakes that soothe the sight and the soul.



and i continued, i was astounded by some of the things i saw.





artworks and sculptures that baffle the imagination and the intellect.



and waters that dance in tandem, shooting up next to spherical rocks.



after lazing on the grass for a while, just to enjoy the quiet of the surroundings, i got up and kept on walking to see what other surprises were lurking around the corner. and just around one of those corners was a public art gallery that was housing some every interesting pieces of work.

very interesting indeed.




these were clearly creative pieces of art made from recycled materials and items that seemed thoughtfully designed and wonderfully executed. my particular favourite among the lot was this gaggle of numerous steel flamingos in a variety of poses and dispositions.



i then see vultures and condors, snakes and rats too. nice.



and just before i leave, a couple of hedgehogs. next to a vase of flowers.

and all these pieces were really nicely done. as i walk out of the halls, i look at the skies above me and i see another beautiful day is beginning to come to an end. i was in a part of the city that i wasn't too familiar with, so i thought to myself, i best be heading back to the guesthouse.



so after this shot, its back to the subway station, and of course, the guesthouse.
time to go home.

but there was one last surprise for the night before i got home. on my way back, i had stopped at a station with a name that was synonymous with a very exciting project that was happening at the seoul at the moment. this project was making waves all over the design universe and i as i stared at the name, i knew i needed to drop by.

this was dongdaemun design park and plaza, and it was designed and being built by the world famous temperamental diva of architecture, the one and only, zaha hadid.

the site was previously a baseball stadium, and a historic one at that, but was demolished ( which did not go down too well with the city's populace it seems ) to make way for an art and performance centre.it was an international competition to redevelop this part of the city into something of an arts hub, for both national and international performances, and it seems zaha hadid and her associates had won the right to design the new complex.

well, it is zaha after all, and thats' reason enough to go, i assured myself.



so with the little extra time that i had before it got really dark, i decided i stop by this project and have a look at the progress so far the site has made, just to get a taste of things to come.



and the buildings scream "zaha" the minute i see them.



sensual curves all over the place.



fluid connections from floor to wall.



and an attempt to organically insert nature into the overall master-plan.



i enter the parts of the buildings open to the complex and notice more artwork. gifts and a host of other trinkets and souverniers were being displayed in retail space.



and as soon as i exit, the night has fallen, and the buildings starts taking on a more romantic, sensual aura. the curves add a touch of something enigmatic in the night atmosphere.



streams of unbroken light illuminate my path.



and i walk on just a little longer. the light works wonderfully in bringing out the fluid nature of the complex.



and the light works well everywhere. sensually so.



both on the new and modern.



and as well the old and ancient.



one quick drink in the cafe was something i decided to have on the spot and and once it got too dark, i decided it was finally time to go home.



this was my last shot of the night, which was a traditional gateway complex just next to the park, and after this, i would be finally be heading back. at this stage i was simply too exhausted to continue anyway, and once i got back, dinner was the priority.

but as i walked back and played the events of the day in my mind, i began to appreciate on how fantastic this day truly was. from monstrous spiders to naked sculptures, from invisible giants to mechanical animals, from verdant landscapes to sensual complexes, i gotta admit ... its been one hell of a day!

one hell of a day indeed! whoa!