that word has got an intriguingly enigmatic ring to it, doesnt it? one of the hundreds, if not thousands of words borrowed from the french language, i've always felt that the word encapsulated a sense of enticing, romantic wonder that cant be contributed to occurrences of mere coincidences or happenstance.
and you gotta admit, there's a seductive tone to it as well.
so i guess its appropriate that a sense of urban romance what was i was looking forward to this evening now that the sun has set and the resplendence of the dark, sacred night has revealed itself. this was my first night in Seoul alone, and there were quite a few places i wanted to rediscover.
yes, rediscover.
again, just like the year before, there was one particular night when HJ took me to a few places, including Insadong, and we had moved on to a few other places after that at the time i couldnt remember thier names or location, only thier proximity to each other. but i did promise myself i would come back and the little that i saw that night was truly breath taking, especially at night.
and so after 12 months, that promise had been fulfilled.
once i left my guesthouse, i went to Insadong and walked around. however, this being a sunday night, commercial activities of any sort ended early that day and the air was silent. it was alright though, cause just walking on the streets of this district was satisfying enough for the time being, and the fact it was drizzling ever so lightly with occasionally gentle gushes of cold wind, made the stroll all too pleasant.
as Ted Mosby would say, "time for a wisdom walk," and that's what this felt like.
i then walked on, trying to explore and remember as many places as i could in the dark, lighted only by the soft glow of the streetlamps above. as i proceeded, i eventually came across this magnificent edifice, and i knew the second i gazed my awe - filled eyes upon it, i had arrived at a monumentally prominent locale. this was Gwanghwamun Gate, and this was where that sense of deja vu started kicking in.
this was the undoubtedly the beginning of a fascinatingly eye-opening walkabout, that was for sure. the night was young, and the spirits in the air summoned me to be as adventurous as i possibly could.
to explore every secretive venue, to delve into every hidden trail, to scrutinize every concealed detail. and so off i go.
now i was at the beginning of an entrance. a royal entrance. this was the glorified gateway to Gyeongbokgung Palace which was the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty, and all its regal splendors inside. at night, however, it served ( to me at least ) the commencement point of a linear axis within an urban landscape. once you stand in front of this beautiful piece of historical masterpiece, you are faced with one significant landmark after another in direct view, traditional or otherwise. the first thing that stands right in front of me, was an elongated, rectangular slice of carpet - like landscape, consisting merely of grass, verdant and fresh.
and as i kept on walking , eventually, i arrive what seems to be at a collection of glass like tubes of incandescent light, glowing mystically within cylindrical containers with gold ribbons of decorated marble.
and of course as i kept on looking, curiously i saw the back of a throne, made too of marble.
of course the natural thing to do was explore and as i went in front, this was the magnificent figure whose striking temperance and posture greeted me, as he sat on tapered pedestal of marble.
this was King Sejong The Great.
a revered figure in korean history and culture, this was the ruler responsible for many a great things in the country's past, some of which include the founding of the Korean alphabet and several other significant accomplishments. in the axis i spoke of earlier, this was obviously a prominent locale. this was one of the key points of that axis, an axis that formed the spinal and spiritual backbone of the area called Junghakcheon.
and i as looked around this was obviously another important landmark that was just next to the square. this was the Sejong Cultural Center, and it was surrounded by several government buildings, including the US embassy. a conspicuous mix of the traditional and the modern, the building stands out as a testament of the country's rich history in the performing arts.
as i looked around, in the distance i noticed another statue. with my curiosity piqued, i proceed. from one historical figure of great significance to another, i proceeded, as i observed another ornate pavilion on my way. oh, how i love the details.
as i reached, i instantly took notice the presence of an even more imposing figure than the King himself. a powerful man indeed, almost mythological in stature, who served the country by tirelessly and valiantly guarding the oceans under Korean sovereignty during its tumultuous past with Japan.
this was Admiral Yi Sun Sin.
and as you can see from his image, this ain't someone you wanna mess with. capish?
this was the admiral much admired by all layers of Korean society, for the tenacity and strength he represented and embodied in defending his motherland from external threats.he was true patriot, who gave his mind, body and soul to his people and his land, and till this day, they consistently honour his ever - present memory by placing his striking presence at the end of one point of the royal axis of this square. it was a fitting monument in the grander scheme of things.
when i did reach this termination point at Jongro street, i looked around, and curiously, i began to hear the sound of waters gushing furiously in the distance. at first of course, it sounded like a trickle, but as i was drawn closer to its source, the trickle became a downpour. incessant and vibrant. i walked on and to my astonishment, i came across a waterfall.
that's right, ladies and gentlemen. a waterfall.
now what would a waterfall be doing in the centre of the most prominent commercial and cultural district in the city? i was dumbfounded at the time and i thought it was merely an elaborate piece of public landscaping, designed to bring strips of green into city. at the time i was unaware , but later on i had found out that this amazing feat of engineering was so much more. in designing cities on a great scale, this project was one of the most interesting manifestations of ideals, thought and experimentations in the industry of redevelopment.
this was an testament of urban regeneration.
and it was called Cheonggyecheon Stream.
a concept in architectural design, where a space that was left to die after years of neglect or apathy, is revitalized and rejuvenated through the incorporation new design ideals and philosophies, re-adapted for a contemporary purpose.
in this instance, this a was the purposeful reconstruction of an ancient river that once ran deeply through the heart of the city, but was sacrificed and buried in a concrete coffin under the streets in the name of industrial development and progress decades ago. as part of the city's agenda in reinventing itself, a somewhat controversial decision in the political arena was made to have this river re-emerge and to allow it take its rightful place as a life - giving artery in the city's infrastructure. resistance was met, but eventually ( and gladly) overcame.
in an urban stage, this was the architectural equivalent of a metaphorical Phoenix rising from the ashes, from where it had perished, to being reborn in a baptism of fire. and i was standing at the beginning of such an exciting space. and so i descended.
and these were the sights i saw.
and as i descended and walked along its banks, i was taken aback by how serenely dramatic this architectural "Phoenix" truly was. on stone floors with soft lighting and tranquil flowing waters, sprinkled with plants at selected boundary points, this truly was a piece of calm paradise, shielded from the center of the madness of the city life above.
an almost subterranean linkage beneath street level from one of the highway to another, it presented many a wondrous surprise as i walked along, such as another small waterfall with randomly placed stones all over the place, an attempt no doubt to create a physical bridge from bank to waterfall itself.
and as i kept on walking, i came across one of the more interesting features of this space. the tunnels beneath the bridges above that allow for traffic above to pass were converted into spaces of delight, gathering and contemplation in a closed atmosphere. people ( read : lovers ) would gather in clandestine spots at sit on the terraced steps of the riverbanks, masked in secrecy from the general public, to steal a moment or two for themselves. in such a space where the lights presented a romantic overture, it was impossible to resist the temptation to display affection, most often seen in the sudden glance of a kiss, quickened or otherwise.
alone. and in their own world.
we should all be so lucky.
and as i walked on, the most wonderful surprise of the night greeted me. one of the tunnels had been converted into a public art gallery, so subtly done and for all to enjoy. that truly was an amazing idea, to have this trove of artworks hung on stonewalls, beneath steel trusses, on what appears to be mats placed all over the place. these pieces of art were captivating, largely monochromatic paintings and photos of Korean society and it was delightful way to end the night.
i spent some time here admiring each piece of work for as long as i could, but it was almost midnight and i needed to be getting back to the guesthouse. once i left the underpass, i saw a staircase leading up again to the main road and to reality itself, strangely, and went back straight the guesthouse, praying of course i wouldn't get lost in the dark of the night.
this had truly been an astounding night of discoveries and i relished every moment.
i wait in anticipation what other delightful experiences are just around the corner. but for now, the night has come to an end, and its time to head home.
good night, seoul. you've been a wonderful host.
see you in the morning.
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